Potting soil is not a single product. Standard all-purpose mixes work well for many leafy tropicals, but they hold too much moisture for succulents and cacti, and not enough nutrition for heavy feeders like Monstera and Fiddle-leaf fig. The most useful habit is to think of the bag of compost as a base ingredient and amend it for the plant you are potting.
For free-draining mixes suitable for succulents, cacti, and semi-succulent plants like Hoya, blend your standard compost with roughly a third to half perlite or coarse horticultural grit. This creates the fast-draining structure those roots need and dramatically reduces the risk of rot. For moisture-loving ferns and calatheas, add a little extra compost or coco coir to retain humidity around the roots.
Repotting does not have to happen on a schedule. Look for roots circling the base of the pot, emerging from drainage holes, or causing the soil to dry out unusually fast after watering. When you see those signs, go up one pot size, no more. Jumping to a much larger container leaves excess soil holding moisture that roots cannot absorb, and that creates rot conditions.
Feed your plants during their active growing season, roughly spring through early autumn, with a balanced liquid fertiliser at half the recommended dose. Less is more: nutrient burn from overfeeding, which shows up as brown leaf tips and edges, is as damaging as underfeeding. Flush the pot thoroughly with plain water once a month to clear accumulated salts from the soil.
Take a break from feeding in winter. Most houseplants rest during the shorter days, and pushing them with fertiliser during this period encourages weak, drawn growth that is more susceptible to pests. Resume feeding when you see the first flush of spring growth, and your plants will reward the patience with a strong, healthy season.